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Soundselectah
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago #1
I'm relatively new to this kiting lark (6 months) and have moved on from my Xtro to a Psycho. There seems to be a bit more to putting the Psycho together, and I'm not sure if I've got it quite right. If anyone could help me I'd be grateful.

I have problems with getting the two piece leading edge to stay together as I assemble the kite. As soon as I put the right hand standoff in, the lower half of the right hand leading edge pops right out. Now it can be held in place (but this is rather awkward) until the whole thing is tensioned up, but even then, the lower half does not fill it's half of the ferrule. (To a lesser extent this also happens on the left side) Is this the way they're meant to be?? Also, it seems like the leech line is very tight - so much so that it pulls the ends of the LE inward.

Does anyone have any advice for me?

Thanks in advance
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chani
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago #2
Hi Dave

I don't own a Psycho, but the following applies to pretty much all stunters.

1) Assemble leading edges 2) Tension sail at wing tips if required 3) Insert lower spreaders 4) Insert upper spreader 5) Attach standoffs - Some kites have more than one standoff on each side. I start at the centre and work outwards

Some kites (eg Gemini) require you to reverse numbers 3 and 4

Regarding numbers 3 and 4 you should make sure that the bridle is well clear of the spreaders. If you don't, you'll stand the chance that the kite won't fly properly.

It's possible you're not doing number 2 at all or getting it wrong somehow. Also, you may have broken one of you right wing's leading edge spars near the ferrule. I'd suggest you remove the spars and check them for damage. Leading edge spars (on kites with more than one part to the leading edge) should fit together smoothly and firmly but not requre force to put together. On my old Prism Fanatic, for example, I occasionally used to get some of the cloth that forms the 'tube' where the LE goes trapped in the ferrule. I'd merely pull the spar out a little and start again.

I have flown a Psycho and, as far as I recall, going from 1 to 5 works OK. Also, unless you really have to, why bother disassembling the leading edges at all?

Hope this helps.
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HowardtheDuck
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago #3
That shouldn't happen at all!

No not at all

It is supposed to be quite tight and should slightly distort the frame but not by much.

Obviously check the points mentioned in the earlier post from James i.e.:- is ferrule blocked, spar broke etc.

IIRC the psycho came with some instructions for initial set up. They weren't too clear but the gist of what they said was this.

1 Ensure the trick line is released from the end knocks. Just leave it dangling from the spine Velcro.

2 Seat the leading edges together. Lead the leach line through wing tip knock. (As from original they didn't have loops or knots, but then I am not sure about current models, mine must be one of the very first) Initially only tension with one end of the rubber band which passes through the LE Dacron over the end knock, thus lightly holding the leach line . Do this for both sides.

3 Assemble with upper and lower spreaders, then stand-offs.

4 Tension the leach line lightly till any creases across the sail are removed and a crease from the stand-off to the LE *just* starts to appear.

5 Bind the excess leach line around the knock itself till all the spare is used up

6 Reconnect the trick line to both knocks (it should not deform the frame at all but be just tense on the ground and usually slightly slack in flight.

7 Secure everything with the other 2nd end of the rubber band over the bound up leach line, first band and trick line.

Hope that has been of some use.

Other tips I have heard, and in some cases used on my Psycho are

a Replace the leading edges with one piece, good quality carbon or plug the carbon at the ferrule to reduce LE breakages. (Common for me)

b Put in an *over length* leach line with loops tied in the ends, tension by turning the knock till desired tension is imparted then trap all with the bands/bungies. (This one from Chris Matheson IIRC and has anyone seen him recently? If so, tell him he is sorely missed)

c drill through one side of the knock with a fine drill, pass the trick line through the hole, knot with a small fig of 8 knot and pull back into the knock leaving less to snag Finish with an 8mm endcap as a coverall boot slit to pass round the trick line. (Not one I have tried)

d Replace the bands with bungie tied inside the Dacron LE 'Benson style'. Lasts longer, less to catch onto with one less 'thing' going around the knock.

e perhaps most importantly check the LE fitting stops are still secured in place. Both upper and lower fittings should be secured so that when assembled the lower spreaders form a straight line across the kite through the T (if a little bowed upwards). The LE fittings should be towards the tops of the cut Dacron slots but not fouling it.

HTH

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, greeny
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ScottNash
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago #4
You might need to move the lower leading edge connectors on the leading edge rod to allow the lower spar to go all the way into the ferrule. I had to do this on both my Psycho and my Stranger.
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Mathefblow
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago #5
Thanks for the help guys - I'll try things out next time the weather clears up. It's poured down ever since, so no chance to fly
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